Debt: The Revolution Will Not Be Borrowed

These anti-capitalist principles are great, but I still have to pay the rent somehow.

These words have stuck with me since they were uttered by a young would-be farmer last year. They resonated, as, by contrast, I am in a position of undeniable privilege, holding title to unceded Djaara lands, with a well-established and viable livelihood from farming. We are embedded in a community where reciprocity is a way of life and ‘favours’ are remembered rather than recorded on a balance sheet. So what should I say to the 31% of Australians who, like the young-would-be farmer, lwho still have to pay the rent, or to the vanishingly small number who can find a way to stump up a deposit, let alone service a lifetime of mortgage repayments? The cost of land and access to money to buy it is a major impediment to growing more farmers, especially young ones. That is why the Australian Food Sovereignty Alliance (AFSA) established Farming on Other Peoples’ Land (FOOPL) several years ago, to support the emerging movement towards land sharing, and why we are developing an Agrarian Trust to get more people onto land. 

Access to and affordability of land is here only part of the challenge farmers are facing in the ever-increasing neoliberalisation of agriculture in Australia. With recent development in abattoir closures, we need to also consider those already farming who are losing access to the few remaining abattoirs , and who desperately (and urgently) need to build local micro-abattoirs? Surely taking out a loan from the bank is the most expedient and logical pathway? We see trends here with similar challenges that occurred decades ago after the loss of equitable access to dairy and grain processing facilities.

For our purposes here today – to debunk the naturalised assumption that going into debt to get what you want is normal and unavoidable – I am going to talk about why and how to avoid debt to build micro-abattoirs. This is the most pressing issue in the food sovereignty movement in Australia right now. Abattoirs owned by vertically-integrated Australian and multinational corporations steadily bar smallholder from access to slaughter, meaning we are on the cusp of losing small-scale family farms, local butchers, and access to any local meat from animals raised on pasture. (Take these out of rural communities and you also erode the fabric of regional Australia.)  

My views on the topic of debt are strongly informed by both our experience of avoiding it here at Jonai Farms while funding major infrastructure projects, and by a lifetime of reading about capitalism and its alternatives, including Indigenous ways of being and thinking, and the rich literatures around diverse economies and degrowth.  

First, let’s unpack the deeply imbued culture of guilt and shame around ‘paying one’s debts,’ which co-exists with a universal despisal of usury – the practice of lending money at unreasonably high interest rates. Who gets to determine what is a ‘reasonable’ interest rate anyway? (Fun fact – usury is illegal in Australia, and the highest legal interest rate is 48% on some unsecured loans! Reasonable?) How did we get to a point where it is reasonable to expect more money back than what you loan somebody? Not so long ago, more people got loans from friends and family than from commercial lenders, but as in so many aspects of modern society nowadays, we transact for more of our needs than we relate for. In fact, going to the bank instead of cousin Dave is now so ingrained in our national psyche that many would never consider asking for help before applying for it, with interest. 

Contrast this with a shared belief amongst many First Nations communities here and around the world that we are born in mutual obligation with Land – our mother – and we must meet these obligations to be in good relations with each other. In this world view, our responsibility is ‘to each according to their need, from each according to their ability’ or as we say at Jonai, everyone should contribute and receive ‘commensurate with needs and capacity.’ Nobody is ‘owed’ anything except Country, and nobody has a right to extract more than another can afford to give. Instead, each of us owes the land and the human and more-than-human world care and consideration of their needs. As Tyson Yunkaporta puts it, we are here to look after the land and the sky and everything in between – that’s our niche in the ecosystem. This is in stark contrast to the liberal tradition, which shirks communal responsibility in the narcissistic belief that ‘we don’t owe anyone anything.’ 

The degrowth movement follows this philosophy about needs and capacity, embracing the notion of how much is enough, celebrating frugal abundance to ensure radical sufficiency for all. ‘Live simply, so that others may simply live’ encapsulates the philosophy well. As Theodore Munger put it in the late 19th century, ‘debt is the secret foe of thrift, as vice and idleness are its open foes.’

Before anybody worries that I’m going to debt-shame people, that is not where this is going. Carrying debt in today’s world is far more common than not – in Australia only 35% of the population has no debt, and the average household debt is a whopping $261,000. The average debt to income ratio (DTI) here is 2:1 – that is, most people owe twice what they earn in a year. This ratio has increased dramatically since the 1970s, and Australia now has one of the highest DTIs in the world. While a longer conversation could be had about why this is so (relatively low interest rates and neoliberal policies that have contributed to the escalating cost of property are central), the key takeaway is that to own property, there are few options other than taking on a hefty bank debt. 

But, back to the abattoir issue. What if we step away from prohibitively expensive land costs, and look at something like a micro-abattoir? If you need $150k or $200k to build one, why not take out a bank loan, find some investors, or leverage your existing mortgage? One important reason not to do that is purely pragmatic –  because abattoirs are not easily made into profitable enterprises, and even the big ones struggle to service debt on top of operating costs, whether it is accrued from the capital expenditure of the build, or through rent or lease payments. Nearly every small-scale farmer (and other small business owners) knows that while you can forego some expenditures in the lean times, loan repayments are not one of them, or you risk losing everything. So why wouldn’t you try to build a system that is not reliant on debt? 

From the pragmatic to the political, let me offer two anecdotes to hopefully de-naturalise our culture’s acceptance of debt. 

Say you find some ‘angel investors’ for your project, who only want ownership equity or a relatively low return (apparently 10-20% is considered low in much of that sector, justified they argue because these are usually considered high risk investments). What I see is some wealthy people who are interested enough in your community project to want to support it, but only if they also make some money from it, which is just business as usual. I have never heard of ‘angels’ in the traditional theological sense who need a return for their good work. Having that return on the balance sheet could make the difference between a successful community-controlled facility, or one that is ‘saved’ by said wealthy folks when it cannot service the return, only to be run into the ground by following the old extractive logic of capitalism and trying to extract surplus value from an enterprise that does not generate a surplus. 

Now a shorter story. Someone asked me recently if I thought it was okay to charge people rent to help you pay your mortgage, and I said, ‘sure, if they get to keep part of the land too.’ The food sovereignty movement is not seeking to become the rentier class, we are seeking to overturn the rentier class and create a society where everyone has what they need for a dignified life and livelihood. A rentier is someone who earns income from capital without working. Sure, many if not most rentiers work for a living themselves, but grow their wealth not by increasing their productivity, but by extracting the surplus value from the labour of others, who hand over an average of 31% of their income in rent.

One of the principles of emancipatory agroecology is to question and transform structures, not reproduce them. To build the new version of the intrinsic infrastructure of agroecology – collective abattoirs and boning rooms, dairy processing and grain mills – we must be more creative and collaborative than the capitalist system has taught us to be. You can’t borrow your way out of debt, no matter what the masters tell you. Well, not until you are a billionaire I guess, because they say that if you owe the bank 1 million dollars, the bank owns you, but if you owe the bank 100 million dollars, you own the bank. I don’t know about you, but I don’t want to be either of those guys. Another principle of emancipatory agroecology is to cultivate autonomy rather than dependence, and debt quite obviously fosters the latter. 

So how do you raise $200k to build a micro-abattoir for a dozen or so local farms? 

First, peasants need to pool your change and then figure out how much more you will need. This won’t be done alone: we need to collectivise. 

Second, what do you have beyond your current operational revenue and within your human capacity to sell to earn some extra cash? In our case, it has been my cookbook, which I chose to self-publish so that all earnings became part of the Meat Collective @ Jonai fundraiser. (There is a long-running theme here of in-sourcing rather than out-sourcing the work to retain the value ourselves, rather than letting third parties extract it.)

Third, what fundraising events could you host? We partnered with our favourite and most dedicated local restaurant Bar Merenda, and together at a spectacular nose-to-tail feast hosted here on the farm, with loads of support from other farmers, chefs, CSA members, and generally excellent humans, we raised $16,200. The raffle and dinner brought together 15 farms, 16 makers, 10 restaurants, 3 retailers, and a tourism operator, who pooled our collective efforts with a healthy dose of ‘here’s something I prepared earlier’ to deliver an epic prize pool for a raffle, raising a further $39,500! A surprise auction raised another $9,700 on the night.

Rounding all of this out, some of our longstanding (and a few new) supporters and CSA members have donated significant dollars because they see the value to the community and the food sovereignty movement, and they have the capacity to contribute. And back at the beginning of the fundraising, our then-farmhand Adam and a couple of mates had a practice run at raising 10 of our pigs on a nearby property as a learning exercise (handling everything from feed and pig moves in a mobile system to advertising, selling, butchering and delivering the meat), and donated their earnings from the experiment to the future abattoir. 

Of course there is also a role for governments in funding the transformation. Matched grants to collective projects can hugely speed up this much-needed revolution. In our case, we had matched funding to build Audrey – our rotating composting drum who is integral to nutrient cycling surplus yield from the abattoir into rich fertiliser for the market garden. 

I wrote in an early COVID post in April 2020, ‘Flirting with capitalism while trying to crush it is a dangerous game. Which is not to say that taking on debt makes one a capitalist, but rather entwined in a system that has made it genuinely difficult to make it obsolete.’

I elaborated…

‘But what I will say for the peasants of the world, be we from a long line of people of the land or relatively newly boots on soil is that resourcefulness and frugality are our bedfellows. Unlike our industrial counterparts, most of us eat what we grow, and we grow what we eat. We savour the products of our labour, and we maintain old traditions of preserving for the lean times. These are the hallmark attributes of peasants the world over, and as I have watched my peasant comrades from Australia to Italy, China to the US, South Africa to Brazil, I have seen their self- and community- sufficiency as the world’s original preppers have found ourselves prepared.’

I was asked at a talk recently how we re-build trust in a society built on transactions that has lost that communal faith in decency and the common good. My response? 

Role model it. If not me, who? If not now, when? 

We have been strengthening our trust muscles here for a long time, exercising them through regular trusting (and trustworthy) behaviours. 

When another person asked me what return farmers would get if they put money into the abattoir, I said we all get a f*cking abattoir. What more do we need?

[This post is cross-posted from our farm blog The Farmer & the Butcher.

Dead Local Meat: Building and Operating a Small-Scale Abattoir

Introduction

Lack of access to abattoirs is affecting small-scale farmers across Australia. Small regional abattoirs have been closing down for years, and the issues smallholders face in accessing large industrial abattoirs are diverse. With the loss of regional abattoirs, farmers are driving very long distances to process small numbers of animals at larger, more centralized facilities. A shift to export focus at large plants has seen pigs ejected from multi-species red meat abattoirs. And at least one poultry abattoir in Victoria has denied farmers access based on the perception that they are ‘competition’ because they produce the same breed of ducks as the abattoir owner, and the same abattoir just informed small-scale growers that they will no longer process their birds at all – with many scheduled to process the very next day.

In an attempt to stay one step ahead of this growing problem of access to processing facilities, we started considering abattoir solutions four years ago. (At the same time we built an on-farm boning room and commercial kitchen to ensure access and control of more of our value chain.) Our initial focus was on mobile abattoirs in hopes of achieving the highest possible welfare at slaughter – no transport, and ideally a totally un-stressed animal whose life is taken without any fear.

Two years ago, I went to see a mobile slaughter unit (MSU) in Kansas in the US, but found that it was in reality parked permanently in a shed. Owner Mike Callicrate, who was very generous with his time and knowledge, shared that it’s difficult to prove a viable model unless you can get a higher throughput than a single farm is likely to generate, and that movement between farms comes with a number of associated costs (e.g. staff accommodation). There are also issues with compliance when operating an abattoir across multiple sites, all with potential zoning issues and/or complicated overlays. Further research has led me to believe that mobile abattoirs might work in remote areas, where the farmers could bear a higher slaughter fee in recompense for the recovered opportunity and motor vehicle costs of long transport distances, but that in a region populated with small-scale livestock farmers such as the central highlands of Victoria, a fixed abattoir is more likely to be both viable and sustainable in the long term.

Shifting our focus to fixed facilities, in July 2017, my life and farming partner Stuart and I went on an abattoir tour and visited eight small-scale abattoirs in nine days over 4200km from Georgia to Vermont to Indiana in the US (one abattoir was still under construction, the other seven were all operational). We found that there are many committed people running viable businesses but that there are significant challenges to sustaining small-scale slaughter facilities, and in particular poultry abattoirs.

The following report was created based on our years of research, the recent tour of abattoirs in the US, and knowledge subsequently shared with us by Amanda Carter of Cool Hand Meats in North Carolina when we flew her out to participate in Australia’s first Slow Meat Symposium, as well as that gleaned from other farmers and processors who attended Slow Meat. The fully operational farms and plants we visited include: White Oak Pastures (Georgia), Cool Hand Meats (North Carolina), Alleghany Meats (Virginia), T&E Meats (Virginia), Vermont Packinghouse (Vermont), Maple Wind Farm (Vermont), and Gunthorp Farms (Indiana).

We’d like to thank the many farmers and abattoir operators who opened their doors and shared years of experience, knowledge, and wisdom with us. Your openness and generosity are deeply appreciated as we embark on a venture to build our own local abattoir and support others across Australia to do the same. To paraphrase a famous philosopher, ‘those who control the means of production control the world,’ and I’m glad to be in the company of the likes of you taking that control back for the people!

I would also like to thank the Victorian Government for their support in awarding me with a Food Source Scholarship to help make the trip to the US possible.

Lesson One: Slaughter is a break-even business & there’s no money in poultry

Multiple operators told us that slaughter is a break-even business, and that the boning room (further processing) is what makes it work. Having cooking and/or other value-add facilities further increases profitability. We learned that red meat is demonstrably more viable than poultry – just consider that it requires as many people to break down one poultry carcass as it does one beef or pig carcass. Clearly that is an enormous amount of labour for a very small yield, so high numbers of birds through the system are required to justify the process. We were flat told by more than one operator that there’s no money in poultry, and even that some lose money on poultry – dispiriting for poultry growers to say the least.

While the average poultry processed across four poultry abattoirs was 1450 chooks a day, the majority were only up to 1000 in a day. When processing ducks it was frequently emphasized that you need to double the time it takes due to QA time. In terms of staffing – we saw no facilities with less than eight people, even in poultry plants without a boning room. Note that wages in the US are at best 50% of what is paid in Australia, but then they also only command around 50% of the price Australian pastured poultry growers can charge.

A key challenge will be to prove a viable business model for slaughtering poultry. There are a number of on-farm poultry abattoirs in the US (we visited three) and in Australia, which seems to demonstrate that there is a viable model there. However, I’m keen to do more investigation and seek financial insight from those with on-farm abattoirs into just how viable that business model is before promoting it to others.

As I write this, Cool Hand Meats run by Amanda Carter in North Carolina just slaughtered its last chickens. The community came together to keep the plant operating while living in hope of investment from quarters that did not present themselves. While not wanting to be too doomsday, I can’t help but share Amanda’s comment when she was with us in Australia that if they were to go under, she sometimes thought it would be a ‘mercy killing’ for her community of small-scale pastured poultry growers as they struggled to make a decent living.

Lesson Two: Operational Insights

 

Lairage

Temple Grandin has revolutionized the conditions for slaughter in America and elsewhere, and part of how she has dramatically improved welfare for livestock is to design much better lairage that takes into consideration the things that spook or stress animals as they are in holding pens and walking through chutes to approach the knock box.

The best lairage we saw was at Vermont Packinghouse, where Arion has used high poured concrete walls for the holding pens. The solid walls ensure lower stress for the animals (as Temple says, ‘they don’t fear what they don’t see’), they are easy to keep clean, and they should last a very long time. We saw Grandin’s influence in a few other places as well, such as in curved chutes to entries to kill floors.

At one plant we saw workers using high pressure hoses just outside the kill floor, and even though the cattle were in holding pens some distance from the activity, they were clearly stressed and cowering from the noise and flashing movements in the summer sun. It sharpened our focus on the need to get the lairage right to ensure the highest welfare environment pre-slaughter. And it also highlighted the importance of training for all staff to ensure they understand the fundamentals of high welfare livestock handling.

The point was also made that plants need sufficient exterior holding pens for the planned throughput, and that these should also be carefully sited.

Stunning

Knock boxes – we saw one modified beef knock box with head resting and a drop down collar for complete immobilisation before the bolt, which is desirable in the American context as their standards have a zero tolerance for failure in stuns. However, my understanding of Temple Grandin’s work is that she believes that cattle are stressed by total immobilization, so this may not be entirely desirable – more research to be done!

While most plants had separate knock boxes for large and small animals (e.g. cattle v pigs), some had simple modifications in the beef knock box (steel inserts) to make it smaller for pigs. At one plant we also saw the ‘v’ shaped design where the floor drops out from underneath and the ‘v’ holds the pigs suspended, which was used to calm and better immobilize the pigs.

Stunning method – no facility we saw used gas stunning, only captive bolt or electric. Previous research had indicated that carbon dioxide stunning was considered best practice in spite of its potentially aversive qualities due to the lesser (stress-inducing) restraint requirements and lower reliance on highly trained staff for mechanical stuns, but our discussions with Amanda Carter of Cool Hand Meats and others offered other insights. An issue with gas stunning is convulsions – there can be bruising because of flailing, unlike in an appropriately applied electric shock. For further comparison see EFSA ‘The Stunning Report’.

According to Joe Cloud of T&E Meats, ‘when stunning for hogs, electric is definitely preferable to fixed bolt or bullet.  More sure; far fewer, if any, bad stuns; less thrashing, thus less chance for carcass damage or employee injury; less blood spotting in carcass.’

More research is warranted on stunning methods, and of course cost is a consideration and gas chambers and associated infrastructure may prove prohibitively expensive.

Staffing and Space Requirements

Labour is the most expensive aspect of running a small-scale abattoir, and even more so in a country like Australia where we have a commitment to fair work provisions and a living wage for all. From our observations, the design of the abattoir can play a significant role in having a sustainable staffing profile for the business.

A take-home point after viewing seven operational plants is that dead space causes a loss of efficiency and increased labour component. Smaller spaces encourage highly efficient staffing quotients, a key difference between viability and non. Sometimes automation actually appears to require more people on the floor – there’s a trade off between speed and number of staff required to manage the equipment that needs careful costing to ensure the right decisions are made when purchasing equipment.

‘Every time you pick up an animal and put it back down you lose money,’ said Amanda Carter.

It is considered advantageous to move product out of a plant quickly so as not to take up space. Time in refrigeration needs to be as short as practicable to make room for the next product to maintain optimal throughput.

Conversely, there is a demonstrated demand for dry-ageing facilities for beef, and provision of this is highly desirable in the oft-artisanal space of small-scale producers. Victoria presents a particular challenge in this regard due to the stringent requirements demanded by PrimeSafe for the dry-ageing of beef, in which a separate dedicated chiller would have to be installed, and a testing protocol not required in other states observed, as well as a mandated reduced shelf life. Ageing only the argie (porterhouse/rump/scotch) rather than the whole carcass is an obvious and common way to reduce the space requirement of the dedicated chiller.

Even distribution of slaughtering across the week, months, and year is important for staff. Seasonal livestock such as most poultry can create a problem for a viable operation as staff need secure and regular employment. A stand-alone poultry abattoir would need to manage this risk, and one that is part of a multi-species facility might still present difficulties as staffing quotients might need to fluctuate throughout the year.

In regards to building a multi-species red meat abattoir, the height of the ceiling is important if you want to slaughter cattle, and should be included in the design from the beginning when building a new structure. Three rooms – kill floor, boning room, chill and store – seems to be a common and practical design across species, with a RTE room as a desirable final addition. You need separate curing and product chill rooms for RTE, and possibly packing space as well, to avoid cross-contamination

Customer Relations/Scheduling

Running a small-scale abattoir means dealing with far more clients with custom needs. The work this creates cannot be over-estimated. Amanda Carter of Cool Hand Meats shared that she spends one-third of her time on customer management, and Joe Cloud of T&E Meats said ‘you have to do a LOT of education and hand holding.’ While we were at Cool Hand Meats a woman came with two rabbits to be slaughtered, and Amanda shared that there had been multiple phone calls and emails – a customer relations workload totally incommensurate with the return to the abattoir. This is just one area where tiered pricing depending on the number of animals being processed is critical to ensuring a viable operation.

In a small-scale abattoir you need to have at least one dedicated office staff member who sets the schedule and handles customer communications by phone and email. It is envisioned that this person also orders consumables, handles compliance, etc.

Many of the operations we visited have a six-month schedule. While this might be good for security of throughput for the abattoir, it has obvious drawbacks for small-scale producers who may not be able to confirm their slaughter dates so far in advance. In the case of a cooperatively-owned abattoir, it exists to serve the needs of its members, and in this case there is a potential conflict as on the one hand, there is a duty to remain viable for the benefit of the whole community, and on the other, to support small-scale farmer members with sufficient flexibility.

Abattoirs are industrial as well as agricultural facilities

Joe Cloud of T&E Meats provided the following very useful input around the siting and design, and energy and water needs of abattoirs, highlighting planning for resilience in the face of climate change:

I cannot emphasize enough that while abattoirs are agricultural facilities, they are also industrial facilities, and they work best with access to adequate infrastructure. Immediate access to public water, power, sewage treatment, gas, plentiful trained tradesmen, and rendering are all preferable to other situations, if possible. Of course, these often aren’t. If you don’t have this you will have to plan very carefully. If you are on wells, you need to test your water regularly & have robust filtration/treatment systems. If you are far from your local substation, you will need a good back-up generator. If you are on a drainfield, you will need to invest in a very good design, and also have traps and sumps to remove as much blood and grease and fat as possible from graywater.

I also think that in the years ahead, with climate change, we have to think differently about our world, and plan more robust adaptive infrastructure systems. Think about winds. We are likely to have more and higher wind storms. How are you planning for that? Especially your roof systems, and your back-up generators for when power lines are blown down. Look at Puerto Rico right now – a disaster. What about fire? If you are in a rural area, are your facilities vulnerable to wildfire? What about drought? If you are on well systems, what will you do in a severe drought? Are you capable of enduring one? What about flooding? We are going to be experiencing much much more precipitation levels in the years ahead. What is now considered a 100 years flood will become commonplace – look at the recent hurricane in Houston, TX – a disaster. DO NOT site your facility where it is vulnerable to flooding, unless you can also provide some adequate mitigation infrastructure.

I think that solar panels are great. But, unless you have a significant battery system (very expensive) your system will be inoperable in case of a regional power outage. Still need back-up generators. Also, a solar array may be vulnerable to damage from high winds – must be built stout.

In the design phase hire a very good mechanical engineer, and emphasize qualities of sustainability and low cost of operation over low initial costs.

Ideas – cluster compressors together and capture waste heat through de-superheaters. Use gas conversion solar technologies to preheat water for sanitation. Abattoirs use a LOT of hot water.

When we installed a new hot water system, I looked at a lot of on-demand systems, like Renai, and I thought I was going to go that way. But in the end, I realized that they were fussy, and needed a good bit of tinkering, and that I was not going to have a qualified and dedicated engineer on staff, and so went with a high efficiency but more traditional system of ganged up hot water heaters. You want simple robust systems.

Think about solar angles and roof lines when siting and designing your building – if your roof is designed as a solar panel support system, that can reduce the costs of such a system, which in the long run can really help save money for refrigeration/water heating costs. Find someone who is forward thinking. However, also give a lot of thought to maintenance trade-offs. You DO NOT want down-time.

Waste management – an opportunity rather than a liability

The on-farm abattoirs we saw appeared to be making the most of what are often waste streams for abattoirs sited in industrial areas. There are opportunities for further revenue as well as ecological benefits from processing ‘waste’ on site into compost or other value-added products. However, Joe Cloud offered a note of caution:

As Will Harris showed you, you can do your own waste management through compost. But you need a good design, and adequate supply of inputs. And that will require labor adding to overhead costs.

Compost – make ‘lasagne’ of windrow compost heaps with abattoir waste and local agricultural and forestry carboniferous waste (See Cornell Waste Management Institute for excellent resources on safe carcass and waste processing options.) We saw a great example of this at White Oak Pastures, where Will Harris makes good use of his abattoir ‘waste’ mixed with ubiquitous local peanut shell husks.

Value add bones, etc

  • Dehydrated chicken feet, pig trotters, ears, etc as dog treats
  • Tallow and/or lard candles
  • Tallow and/or lard soap
  • Decorative skulls
  • Hides salted on-site and tanned – potential relationship with local traditional tannery to make a range of leather products.

Business Structure & Funding Model

One reason it is difficult to run a viable abattoir is because in a highly industrialised food system that values cheapness over quality the profit margin will never be high, and in many cases will not be sustainable. We believe that nobody should profit from slaughter – it’s a critical part of the food chain that should provide a service for a fee, not profits for shareholders. In Australia we’ve seen the closure of countless abattoirs over the past twenty years, including the recent shut down of Churchill, Australia’s largest domestic-only abattoir (which processed up to 2300 beef carcasses per week and did 20% of Woolworths’ northern processing).

Given this context, I’ve always believed any abattoir we build must be a not-for-profit, and preferably also a cooperative. That is not to say it shouldn’t pay all workers fairly and run as a highly professional business with clear accountabilities, but there should not be shareholders who take an enduring profit from early investment and drive the cost up and viability down. As such, the start-up funding must be carefully procured, most likely from a mix of government grants and community funds.

In terms of those accountabilities, Joe Cloud says, ‘responsibility and authority has to be clear – and simple. When things break or go wrong – and in a meat plant that is likely to be EVERY DAY – it needs to be clear who has decision-making authority, and that person or those persons need to be right there, right then.’

Our Hope: the feasibility of Hepburn Meat Collective

We want to build a multi-species abattoir in Daylesford, here in the central highlands of Victoria. We have a thriving region of small-scale producers who regularly collaborate and support each other, a strong community of like-minded eaters, and also a thriving tourism industry, with a Council that has included outreach and educational opportunities from agriculture as part of the strategic brief of our shire. Together we are working to build food and agriculture systems that are ethical and ecologically sound, and the Hepburn Meat Collective is the next logical step to ensure our ability to continue this important and fulfilling work.

Our initial thinking was that we would start with poultry, then add a boning room with cook facilities, then build the red meat facility and ensure it’s of a size to slaughter everything from lambs and pigs to full size cattle. We’re seeking advice from the consultants to whom we have access through the Federal Government’s Farming Together program to see whether we can demonstrate a viable poultry facility before settling on the exact model and build process.

For the reasons discussed above, our preference at this stage is also that the abattoir will be a cooperative – co-owned by farmers and potentially other community members (there is much more to be discussed before we can determine the optimum model for coop membership). Including all species from the beginning will ensure buy in from more farmers than if we only focus on poultry in the initial stage. So while a staged build is envisioned, the entire project should be scoped, costed and planned for.

Staffing – our aim is to have a diversified facility where staff can work across the system – e.g. a day on a farm, a day on slaughtering, a day on processing, a day on distribution… and no one killing five days a week. As a small-scale abattoir, we don’t envision being able to fully employ people at just one thing, but there is potential employment across the value chain. The facility could in fact function as a farmer incubator, teaching whole value chain skills to help develop a future generation of farmers and farm and food workers.

While this highly diversified farmer incubator model is our preferred staffing model, we acknowledge the need for specialization and the challenges of cross-training a diverse workforce. We envision a need to balance our hope for a socially just and transformational system with the pragmatism required to run a successful operation.

The current preferred site is at the old Daylesford abattoir which has 100 acres attached – this gives a great deal of scope for the project to develop into a world-leading food hub. We envision that the project that starts with an abattoir, boning room, and commercial kitchen, but could also include on-site composting, rendering, leather production, and other methods of creating a no-waste nutrient-cycling operation, as well as ensuring highest animal welfare practices by locating the holding pens somewhat removed from the entrance to the kill floor. The site also already has like-minded small-scale existing tenants with food processing and distribution facilities, something we see as deeply synergistic to the project.

Download the full report below with additional appendices regarding ‘the need’ for abattoirs and detailed notes on the facilities we visited.

171103_Jonas abattoir research report_final